Puerto Montt - Valdivia - Villarrica - Temuco - Curico - Valparaiso
After sharing a long road, my brother off again to France and my parents are recovering the role of shipmates. They come from north of the country I was not yet explored, sandy earth, geysers, heat and blazing sun. With Clement we arrive from the south, rain, humidity, green meadows and lush forests. Before the three of us, the road from Puerto Montt to Temuco, between lakes and volcanoes, the Pacific coast and to deal with 6 months of gossip to catch up. We alternate between hiking in forests and cultural visits as at Fort Corral near Valdivia or museum Mapuche Villarica, taking care to leave time to enjoy our reunion. Ten days passed quickly and just past the reunion, we must again say goodbye. After their departure, it is time to go back, south of Santiago has been well explored and I only have two months to reach Lima or I would find friends who share with me the discovery Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca.
So by bus and by the Pan American that I am back to the north. By road only 150 km east of the track that I'm down south, I thought finding the same type of landscape. It is not so, the Central Valley, which lies between the great Cordillera and the Cordillera of the coast is much more dry and arid for crops VIGNICOLE.
If in southern winter seemed to happen fast (even before it is autumn), here it seems that time has stopped in the middle of summer. When I jump on the bus Curico - 200 km south of Santiago - I find myself in the dry heat of early evening. The houses finally breathe after crushing the temperatures of the day, the doors are open, we talk on the sidewalks again become frequent after sunset. Above the palm of clear sky light goes out slowly. The next morning at breakfast it is already hot and evil through the arbor attached solar filter small shapes dancing on the old waxed cloth to suit the light wind stirred the leaves of trees. I do not have the endurance of South American and the 6 hour bus ride to me just yesterday. I like the choice I'd take the train this time. It's a bit more expensive - The guichettier makes you also know before you buy the ticket you can go to Santiago to 1 / 3 the price bus but I take the train, and there were not above change me!
This price difference is not encountered at all the same people in the bus! Here to pass the time women nail varnish, it reads interior design magazines, for many men in ties and are used in place of coffee a price would be enough to pay me a good chicken fries at a popular restaurant.
Through the Window the landscape continues to change slowly started yesterday. The green meadows and forests gradually leave room for the yolk, then shrinks the vegetation gives way to field first suburbs of Santiago. I do not dwell in the capital and take the first bus to Valparaiso.
I get to Valparaiso by a sunny afternoon. It is hot and from the first glance I like the city. She has that Southern charm with American and more this beautiful bay and the hills that made his reputation. I found a nice family hotel just above the port or the day is punctuated by the clang of cable car in the street nearby recreation Early nearby school and gored boats that announce their departures from lontaines and mysterious destinations. The port bustles with activitée overflowing gold in the same way that I take the train, I love to watch the harbor activity (do not I gritted my father's son?). So there I was served. Today it bustles around the Wild Lotus, the Baltic Start the Jorgen Lauritzen and Cygnus Reefer. Crane never seem to stop, the remoqueurs agitated, a huge container port begins its departure, the colorful boxes fly through the air ... Organized around this ballet stirs many small boats that make promedade Bay in a huge mess and cries of rabateurs
- "1000 pesito el paseo, paseo ultimo, vamo, vamo, 1000 peso!".
What spend hours ... if one likes it. But there is so much to do, let yourself get lost in the maze of stairways, alleyways, and stalemate is a pleasure. Huge murals, joyously colorful houses, plots, breathtaking views ... Climb the ancient funicular rises above the bay ... Just s'impregnier this unique atmosphere ... Valparaiso won my heart, that air of bohemian blows leaves a special memory, moreover, that geometric detail is important, the schematic straight streets intersecting at right angles which prevails in Latin America leaves room for street here to curves! And when the evening sun ignites the hills ... A wonder, a jewel placed facing the Pacific Ocean. However, the picture would be incomplete if I do not speak of tons of garbage dumped in the hills between the houses of the appalling state of disrepair of the habitat of some district ... 15 days ago, caught fire on a hill, extending many of its small wooden houses, and the fire was slow to stop, because the wind fanned the flames but especially the district was not connected to the network running water! And there is no need to get away too well swept streets where you walk between chic restaurant and art gallery to show this side of the picture.
Feeling good here I stay a little longer before returning to Argentina again to continue my ascent to the north.
A in about 15 days ... a little closer to Peru.
and if one day you have time and money ... do not hesitate a second, just breathing the air of Valparaiso.
Photo 1: In front somersault Petrohué of a volcano that will never see the day. (It that of the previous article)
Photo 2: An overview of the central valley from the train
Photo 3: When dreams become reality ... I lean my elbows on one of the points of view, the port under the feet.
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