El Chalten - El Calafate - Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine - Punta Arenas
The Photo: La Cumbre, park Torres
It's like a refrain I hear now from a dozen times ... enough in any case well known. It begins: First the leaves rustle and then, inevitably, the wind becomes the thud, full and powerful. It is now all the trees that bend strongly to undergo the new burst. Then wind down, my tent a bit agitated, and after a short pause, the strong current of air is over me. In a reflex although I do not hold out the bottom of my sleeping bag hoping that my little tent will cash without breaking the new breeze. The poles are bent, canvas crashes ...
I wake up a bit after the day the wind fell, my tent is still standing and the sun shone brightly but my first night in the park of Torres was short.
But I've not said where I was. After rejoind Chile Puerto Natales, I went for 8 days and 150 km walk in the big park of Torres del Paine. This place is just amazing as we came across a surprising variety of landscapes, which a priori has nothing to do together. It must be said that the place is special, on the north, Argentina and the area of Fitz Roy and glacier on the west end of the 500 km of ice aptly named Campo de Hielo Sur. Beyond the Campo, Only few kilometers are the channels of Patagonia, hall pacific finally, to the east stretches the great plain of Argentina and south, the long steppe Fugen.
In the northern part of the park stands a massive and sudden abrupt burst of the last mountain range before diving between the Atlantic and the Pacific. Going through the park, navigating between these lakes or deep turquoise blue sea that montonnent downwind. In small trail-like roads of customs there are those scents of spring at Belle-Ile, but it looks up and faces a fine waterfall with a height impressionnnante or before the crossing of a steep gorge. The path changes again and winds in a small bush when the sun returns. Farther it overlooks and along the Glacier Grey seems to be a raging sea or a torrent raw, frozen by a sudden ice age.
But I've not said where I was. After rejoind Chile Puerto Natales, I went for 8 days and 150 km walk in the big park of Torres del Paine. This place is just amazing as we came across a surprising variety of landscapes, which a priori has nothing to do together. It must be said that the place is special, on the north, Argentina and the area of Fitz Roy and glacier on the west end of the 500 km of ice aptly named Campo de Hielo Sur. Beyond the Campo, Only few kilometers are the channels of Patagonia, hall pacific finally, to the east stretches the great plain of Argentina and south, the long steppe Fugen.
In the northern part of the park stands a massive and sudden abrupt burst of the last mountain range before diving between the Atlantic and the Pacific. Going through the park, navigating between these lakes or deep turquoise blue sea that montonnent downwind. In small trail-like roads of customs there are those scents of spring at Belle-Ile, but it looks up and faces a fine waterfall with a height impressionnnante or before the crossing of a steep gorge. The path changes again and winds in a small bush when the sun returns. Farther it overlooks and along the Glacier Grey seems to be a raging sea or a torrent raw, frozen by a sudden ice age.
The meeting, a few kilometers from here the two oceans is a wind of power sometimes phenomenal, coming from the west on the lakes of lifting columns of spray, pulling the fresh snow slopes to the most exposed and the return of peaceful clouds simply unimaginable proportions ... All in this atmosphere of sheer cliffs, vertical and surprising colors. And climate side, you understand that here the word does Summer not the same thing here in the park with the minimum of 2 up to 13 degrees all complemented by rain, wind, snow, grain ...
But all this does not cooled the ardor of the crowds internationally. The Park and Southern Latin America is indeed on the road all tourdumondistes. While in camp, when we give ear is almost always hear this international English so much that I once asked if, during one of my night, Mars would not have teletransporting in Yellowstone Park. It lacks a little charm.
But all this does not cooled the ardor of the crowds internationally. The Park and Southern Latin America is indeed on the road all tourdumondistes. While in camp, when we give ear is almost always hear this international English so much that I once asked if, during one of my night, Mars would not have teletransporting in Yellowstone Park. It lacks a little charm.
That also about fifteen days I find that my journey to lose its Authentic hand encounters with less local color and the feeling of following a tour in a giant amusement park. I regret my little parks, or further north, being almost the only tourist I was worth a warm Hospitality. However, I continue to meet people, they are just another type well and sometimes I fall. As with her 2 nice french who were beginning their trip here 15 months between Andean summits, New Zealand and the Himalayas. We exchange travel dreams, we imagine the new ...
But I would have my last meeting with Chile. After a short day's journey, I arrived at the camp Italiano or I found Fanny, a strasbourgoise of eternal good humor, traveling alone and who had crossed the border by Lago O'Higgins.
But I would have my last meeting with Chile. After a short day's journey, I arrived at the camp Italiano or I found Fanny, a strasbourgoise of eternal good humor, traveling alone and who had crossed the border by Lago O'Higgins.
The night rain has started again to fall (original!) 2 Sister, and Kansas have invited me as their shelter of branches to able to cook my dinner. Then what happened Nikolas, the gardaparque who was had to do a little pity. The wind came back and we were squatting under the branches, protecting small flame stoves with our hands. It invites us to share a little tea in his hut. This is not very big, there is the room where the big wood stove. It is warm, dry and can hold 6 or 8 with shaking. On the other side of the corridor, a bathroom and close the small room with 2 guards park. They live without Line current, working 12 days and then resting 4 to Puerto Natales. It is pleasant to sit in the corner of the stove when almost everything in the tent is as humidity! In addition to the music coming out of the two small speakers cell delighted my ears. Tea and password, as he gets along well mate then becomes cider and dinner arrives, a big chicken that was cooking for two good hours in the pan. There were thus two sisters from Kansas, Fanny, our two gardaparque and myself. We share So this simple but delicious dinner, offered with such good heart and accented with red wine! (A real Christmas meal with 3 days late) If the first Gardaparque, Lucho (Luchito said) is kind of quiet, Nikolas his colleague is kind of energetic, good actor and good mood after sharing dinner, he launches into an incredible show with my zigomatiques still remember. So here he is transformed in turn into a magician, photographer missed or stunt before our very eyes. There is even a small interval when Martin knocked at the door, a poor German hiker, soaked to the bones that came to ask to boil some water and dry. During the second act, Nikolas unabated and now he is dancing Hip Hop, Ninja, diver, percussionist, completely mastering his show is very interactive. You will understand that the evening went quickly and made us forget the rain drummed on the roof. We all ended up dancing to get cramps in the belly that had strength to laugh before returning to our tents in the rain which had still not stopped, his heart warmed by this unforgettable evening.
A camp below, it is 4:30 when the Canadian Alec Ontario just waking up. We climb to see the sunrise over the impressive towers that give the park its name. Their formation of granite and their orientation can take the colors of raising a beautiful way. Unfortunately for me, the show will be limited because this morning the sky is overcast and the sun is not coming we decided to offer the show for which we walked one hour, eyes still half asleep, hands and face numb by cold. Surprisingly and for the first time since I'm in the park, the wind dropped, everything is calm. I went down to the park entrance, crossing all those who see the towers went up, cursing the luck that had deserted me for this morning crucial. But as I turned I saw this huge cloud that has made all disappear in a thick fog and did not delay us Copisa water.
I finally had much better luck than I imagined, I could now return Natales to enjoy a good shower and a comfortable bed, protected from rain and wind ...
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