
Curacautin-Villarica-Temuco-Puerto Montt-Futrono-Chiloé.
The picture, a house so far away on the Pacific coast.
After a final ride on the side of volcanoes, which led me to heart of a forest of incredible wealth, bathed in streams, lakes and waterfalls, the landscape changes again. On a leap of 150km to the south, I found the sea in Puerto Montt. In fact, sea there is a gulf, protected from the Pacific by the Big Island of Chiloé. Gulf opens to the south while to the east, the Cordillera them with brutality and throws in a few hundred meters, the peaks still bear the whiteness of the recent winter dip in the small sea that whitens, she, as a result of a powerful blow south.
Chiloé is a long island that makes the round back on the ocean side, as if to absorb the deep depressions peaceful s'abatent violently on it year round. This coast is virtually deserted and covered with a forest millennium. Deserted, not quite, it can be accessed by Cuaco, 30km after a bad track. Going back then to the north by the beach (the path disappears, swallowed by the dunes), we discover, throughout the coast, spreading over 20 kilometers of isolated houses that form an indigenous community of some forty families who live here without running water or electricity for generations, with the only resources algae and their small herds. I had the chance to make a long way with Adonis, her sisters and friends. They are between 7 and 10 years and come home from school. This is not the first time I've a long way with kids and that's always a pleasure. Adonis is particularly curious to the point that it's hard to be able to ask questions too. But the exchange is valuable, they will have learned that you can not come from France to their homes on foot, we talk with us a language other than English and we do not really need us Tigers wary of when we go home at night! He tells me bird hunting which, when successful, allows you to vary the dishes and the long rainy winters.
the other hand, is all Another thing, the island displays its cultures and the many villages that are facing a multitude of islands scattered in the Gulf.
It's not a lot of miles to live in the Pan-American South when we fork left to do the 8 miles that separates it from Dalcahue. 15 minutes ferry enough then to reach the island Quinchao. At the end of this island, there is a charming little port but particularly stirred for its size. In the axis of the main street is the long thin wedge that amaris are no fewer than 12 boats, couple, 6 on each side.
the other hand, is all Another thing, the island displays its cultures and the many villages that are facing a multitude of islands scattered in the Gulf.
It's not a lot of miles to live in the Pan-American South when we fork left to do the 8 miles that separates it from Dalcahue. 15 minutes ferry enough then to reach the island Quinchao. At the end of this island, there is a charming little port but particularly stirred for its size. In the axis of the main street is the long thin wedge that amaris are no fewer than 12 boats, couple, 6 on each side.
Under the small hall, the market is in full swing, do not stop to return and out of this small restaurant or s'échape a good smell of grilled fish and pushers of carts, themselves, never make a trip to empty. At first I thought a return to fishing, but on closer look, these boats are not fishing boats. The agitation continues and it goes up and down on the boats. On hold, people start to ask the time and then load everything from flour, chipboard plates, beer, pipes, sheets, rolls of wire, potatoes, packages of diapers ... And as all boats are a couple, it spans, we hold out my arms, we throw, you catch up, it pulls on the Amar! So I end by engaging in conversation with one of the boat skipper, that he had with the head might as well be able to skipper Guilvinec!
Every Monday and Friday he explains, a boat of each of the islands which lie opposite just to Achao. It sells is being done on the island, we buy what is not, it makes the papers for mayor, we touch the pensions of former ... This is a good friendly time and it allows to keep the news. The only thing that can disturb the ritual is a big blow north, but otherwise, every Monday and Friday, Achao, a small port to a small island in the Great Island of Chiloe becomes the center of all these little bits of land scattered in the Gulf. And when the time approaches to leave, this happy stratagem takes on a lot of fun. We send the kids to look for stragglers while loading the latest accelerating. Those who were on time or ahead pati lend a hand to this poor little grandmother who has a little difficulty raising your leg high enough to board. The poor is not the end of his sentences, his boat is the third from the hold.
A first boat horn, pigweed and returned a few minutes later, a first small group of 4 boats left Achao before slowly separating it a bit further. And each returns to his small island to live quietly until the next visit to Achao ...
He saw himself decidedly strange existences on Chiloe ...
As for me I embark tomorrow for 5 hours crossing between Quellon, south of Chaiten Chiloe and at the foot of the mountain range and the thick clouds that washed me well for 2 days and 2 nights are me- Do we say that a nice preamble to expect that the Southern Highway.
As for me I embark tomorrow for 5 hours crossing between Quellon, south of Chaiten Chiloe and at the foot of the mountain range and the thick clouds that washed me well for 2 days and 2 nights are me- Do we say that a nice preamble to expect that the Southern Highway.
soon, a little further south ...
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